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» Fresh Cup (USA),  1/6/2005


The Fresh Cup guide to 12 perfect coffee experiences in the Eternal City.

Story and photographs by Jesper Storgaard Jensen

Every espresso afcionado should at some point make the pilgrimage to the Mother City. So let’s assume your bags are packed, and everything is ready for your trip to Rome, with its innumerable historical sites and thousands of cozy restaurants, pizzerias, trattorias and wine bars waiting to greet you. But where do you actually go, if you want to taste the famous Italian coffee, which – quite understandable – is the main reason why so many Italians suffer from “coffee withdrawls” when away from home?
The choice is not easy in Rome’s urban jungle of approximately 5,900 bars and cafés. Therefore Fresh Cup has visited twelve of the Italian capital’s most known cafés, all full of atmosphere and tradition.
Take a look at the possibilities and make your choice: Follow the footsteps of the late Pope John Paul II or world-famous filmmaker Federico Fellini, experience the solemn ambience in Rome’s oldest café, look at Rome’s terracotta colored rooftops from high above, visit a part of Sicily in Rome, relax in a stylish “cosmopolitan-like living room” or simply be enchanted by the locals from the old Trastevere neighbourhood.
Have a great trip and enjoy your coffee!

1. Antico Caffé del Brasile, Established 1905
Via Serpenti 23
Open: Monday to Saturday, 6am to 8.30pm. Closed Sunday.
Speciality: Caffé del Papa.

The Antico Caffé del Brasile (The Old Brazilian Café), situated in Rome’s cosy Quirinale neighbourhood, is only a good stone throw away from the Colosseum and the Forum Romanum. The small café opened its doors for the first time in 1905. The Antico Caffé burns their five different blends themselves, of which the most famous is the “Caffé del Papa”, the Pope’s coffee, as the lighted sign announces outside the café. This blend got its name from recently deceased Pope John Paul II. When he was young and studied theology at the close by Angelicum University, he often stopped at Antico Caffé for a cup of coffee. In the years just before the break out of the Second World War, the café was a popular venue for intellectuals and cultural personalities, who frequently met to discuss the way of the world. Today the Antico Caffé is mainly attended by people from the local neighbourhood. If you want to follow the footsteps of John Paul II, you can easily do so on your way to a visit to the Colosseum.

2. Caffé Sant’Eustachio, Established 1938
Piazza Sant’Eustachio 82
Open: All week, 8.30am to 1am. Closed Wednesday.
Speciality: Grancaffé speciale.

One of Rome’s most popular coffee temples, Sant’Eustacchio, is situated between Pantheon and Piazza Navona, just behind the Italian Senate. The café was founded in 1938 and the deer mosaic on the floor, the café’s emblem, has been there from the very first day. The many different kinds of coffee, arriving from all over the world, are burnt in the back of the café on an old fashioned coffee burner, which is heated with wood. The highly praised quality of Sant’Eustacchio’s coffee has crossed both Rome’s and Italy’s boarders long ago, which, according to the owner, Mr. Raimondo Ricci, has attracted celebrities such as J.F. Kennedy, Boris Jeltsin, Sylvester Stallone and Naomi Campbell. Sant’Eustacchio’s specialty is the creamy expresso “Grancaffé speciale”, but the selection of the blends is almost unlimited. For the sweet-toothed, the Grancapuccino or the hot chocolate with whipped cream, made with real cacao beans, are highly recommendable.

3. Caffé Tazza D’Oro, Established 1946
Via degli Arfani 84-86
Open: Monday to Saturday, 7am to 8pm. Closed Sunday.
Speciality: Monachella - espresso

One of Rome’s most well-known cafés, Caffé Tazza D’Oro, The Golden Cup, is situated in front of the 2000-year-old Pantheon. Tazza D’Oro opened in 1946. The café’s interior design - bambooed walls, ceiling fans and large, transparent containers with ungrinded coffee beans – gives the Golden Cup a charming pre-war colonial atmosphere. In the café you’ll find exotic blends such as Jamaica Blue Mountain and the rare Maragogype from Nicaragua, which is the main the reason why Tazza D’Oro is considered a true Mecca for coffee lovers. If you want to buy a bag of Tazza D’Oro’s freshly grinded beans, it’s possible to have a taste before you decide. The café’s founder, Mr. Mario Fiocchetto, travelled a lot in South America and was so enthusiastic about the continent and its coffee that he chose a tall, sensual, black woman sewing coffee seeds as its logo.

4. Il Bar – Castel Sant’Angelo, Established 1948
Lungotevere Castello 50
Open: Tuesday to Sunday, 9.30am to 9.30pm. Closed Monday.
Speciality: Caffé Marrochino – espresso with a shot of Fernet Branca

If you are eager to kill three birds with one stone combining culture and history with the enjoyment of good coffee, Castel Sant’Angelo – one of Rome’s most interesting museums and historical buildings – is definitely a good choice. On top of this famous building from A.D. 139, which was built as a mausoleum to emperor Hadrian – and later used as fortress, prison and as papal residence in periods with political unrest – you will find a charming and romantic small café with an equally charming 360 degree view of the Vatican neighbourhood and great part of central Rome. Mr. Luigi Boccherini has run the café since its opening in 1948, and he will gladly tell you about its many prominent guests throughout almost six decades: former US-president Jimmy Carter, Queen Elizabeth of England, several Italian presidents, Sophia Loren, Federico Fellini, the recently deceased Pope John Paul II and a large number of Italian and international showbiz VIPs. If you want to check it out for yourself, just take a look at the “wall of fame” inside the café. The abovementioned speciality is recommendable.

5. Antico Caffé Greco, Established 1760
Via dei Condotti 86
Open: Monday to Saturday, 8.30am to 8pm, Sunday from 10.30am to 7pm.
Speciality: Not one in particular.

Rome’s oldest café, situated near The Spanish Steps, is truly an institution in the Eternal City. Caffé Greco was founded in 1760 by a Greek (hence the name). Throughout its existence, it has been a popular rendezvous for numerous Italian and foreign cultural personalities such as Keats, Shelly, Byron, Göethe, Liszt, Wagner, Casanova, Hans Christian Andersen and many others. In 1953, the Italian Ministry of Public Education designated the Caffé Greco as “a place of historical and national interest”. The old photos on the walls, the red plush upholstery furniture, together with the waiters’ sometime serious expressions, create an almost solemn atmosphere that gives the visitor a glimpse of what this café must have been like back in its day of splendour. The clientele of today is a judicious mixture of Romans wearing reading glasses – who apparently try their best to uphold the café’s literary tradition – and tourists from all over the world. The café is quite expensive, which is comprehensible, considering its history and posh atmosphere.

6. Giolitti, Established 1930
Via Ufficio del Vicario 40
Open: All days from 7am to 1am
Speciality: Caffé Confuso and Frappucino.

Giolitti is a well-known family dynasty in Rome’s café environment. The family run company started in 1870 with a dairy-product business. In 1930, the Giolittis opened the doors to what has become one of the most popular Roman ice-cream bars, which, however, is also very well equipped in the coffee section. Giolitti’s location, flanking the Italian Parliament in Piazza Montecitorio, means frequent visits of parliamentarians, their bagmen and other people of political extraction. Giolitti proudly boasts of its contribution in a history-making event where a small group of politicians gathered in Giolitti’s coffee room in 1964 to decide that Giuseppe Saragat was to become Italy’s next prime minister. Ten minutes later the official announcement was made in the Parliament. Giolitti’s two specialities – respectively expresso and cappuccino – will delight your palate. The frappucino is prepared with liquid chocolate, coffee and zabaglione and followed by a generous sprinkle of cacao. A real must!

7. Bar San Calisto, Established circa 1960
Piazza San Calisto 3-5
Open: Monday to Saturday, 6am to 1am. Closed Sunday.
Speciality: Slush ice with coffee taste and expresso with homemade whipped cream.

Bar San Calisto is situated close to the beautiful Piazza Santa Maria in Trastevere in the heart of Rome’s characteristic and suggestive Trastevere neighbourhood. Here Bar San Calisto is considered an institution to such an extent that the locals simply name it “Marcello’s” after the owner, Mr. Marcello Forti, who you’ll usually find behind the cash register. San Calisto is about 40-years old and its clientele is a fascinating mixture of local bohemians, extravagant artist wannabes, foreign students and ordinary people. The aroma at San Calisto is often a mixture of freshly rolled joints and just made coffee. If you happen to be in Trastevere in the evening, don’t miss visiting Marcello’s, either to enjoy an aperitif before dinner or for an after dinner expresso. The people-watching experience of the bar’s charming gallery of characters is unforgettable.

8. Rosati, Established 1922
Piazza del Popolo 4-5a
Open: All days from 7.30 a.m. to 11.30 p.m.
Speciality: Caffé Marrochino - espresso with chocolate, cacao and whipped cream).

Rosati, one of Rome’s most famous so-called historic cafés, saw the light of day for the first time in 1922. Rosati can be found just next to the stunning Piazza del Popolo in the heart of the city. Since the very first days of its foundation it has been a popular rendezvous for la Roma bene, the Roman upper class. Some of Italy’s deceased heavyweight writers, such as Alberto Moravia, Italo Calvino and Elsa Morante, were all regulars at Rosati for a number of years. So was world famous film maker, Federico Fellini, who until his death in 1993 met every morning with his philosopher friend Luciano De Crescenzio. In the late 1970’s, when national terrorism peaked in Italy, Rosati was a popular meeting place for leading rightwing politicians, which in two occasions led to bombings outside and inside the café. Today, Rosati’s marble floors, dark mahogany wood, antique mirrors and white uniforms proudly worn by the bartenders, give you a feeling of having come to a place with spirit and tradition.

9. Caffè Capitolino, Established 2000
Palazzo Caffarelli, Via delle Pile 4
Open: Tuesday to Sunday, 9am to 8pm. Closed Monday.
Specialty: Not one in particular

This café is the newest in this guide, since it only saw the light of day in spring 2000. Yet it has to be a part of this guide due to its fame among the Romans. In fact, if this café was to have a subtitle, it might very well be “a coffee with a view”, due to the fact that the café’s visitors have access to the beautiful Caffarelli terrace. From here, high above Rome’s terracotta colored roofs, you have an absolutely splendid view of nearby Piazza Venezia’s famous white Vittorio Emmanuele-Monument, to most of the Jewish ghetto and even to the impressive cupola of St. Peter’s church. After a visit to the Michelangelo designed Palazzo Nuovo, where you find Rome’s oldest museum - Musei Capitolini - the Caffè Capitolino next door is the perfect place to go. Here you can enjoy a good coffee with your eyes full of Rome, surrounded by the terrace’s holm oaks, pines and cedars.

10. Pasticceria Dagnino, Established 1952
Galleria Esedra, Via V. Emanuele Orlando 75
Open: All Week from 7am to 11pm.
Speciality: Not one in particular

If you are looking for a gastronomic piece of Sicily in Rome, this is the place to go. Hidden halfway inside the Galleria Esedra, near the large Piazza della Repubblica, Dagnino has specialised in Sicilian pastry. The Dagnino family started business in the Sicilian capital Palermo. Later on, at the beginning of the 1950’s, the family opened the pasticceria, the confectioner’s store, in Rome. At Dagnino you can enjoy all the most famous Sicilian pastries, e.g. the ricotta cheese filled cannoli, the sticky cassatina which is a mix of candied orange and lemon peel, green icing, almond paste and moist ricotta and the cassata siciliana, which, of course, explains the many Sicilian regulars and gastronomic aficionados. Don’t forget to look at the graffiti panting over the bar and the wall decorations in the coffee room next to the entrance, all original works by the Sicilian painter Alfonso Amorelli. If you visit Dagnino on a Saturday or Sunday afternoon, you will be able to enjoy a good cup of coffee listening to live classical music played on piano.

11. Antico Caffé della Pace, Established circa 1900
Via della Pace 3-7
Open: Monday, 4pm to 3am, Tuesday to Sunday, 9am to 3am.
Speciality: Not one in particular. But the coffee is made on the legendary Faema E61-espresso machine from 1961.

Bar della Pace, the Peace Bar, as it is also called, has a hundred-year-old history. It’s situated in one of Rome’s “hot, young areas”, just next to thrilling Piazza Navona. In the evening, the café is mainly frequented by the “party people”. Bar della Pace is considered one of Rome’s hippest cafés. Here you can meet actors, TV personalities, artists, politicians and other VIP’s and wannabes. For this reason the café is considered a perfect hunting place for hungry paparazzis looking for a good “shot”. One of the Beat Generation’s great poets, Gregory Corso, was once a regular. So was the well-known Italian poet Ungaretti. Today – faithful towards its poetic tradition – the Bar della Pace arranges read aloud poetry slams every Friday at 3pm to 6pm. If you want to feel trendy and elite visit Bar della Pace, so you too, can say, that you have “been there”.

12. Gran Caffé La Caffettiera, Established 1999
Via Margutta 61a
Open: Sunday to Tuesday, 10am to 9pm, Wednesday to Saturday, 10am to 12pm.
Speciality: Il caffé Gran Caffettiera.

La Caffettiera, The Coffeepot, is situated in one of Rome’s central and cosy artists street, Via Margutta, where art galleries and studios lie shoulder to shoulder. Once Rembrandt and Picasso were habitués in the same street. The opening of the Gran Caffé only dates back to 1999, which makes it the second youngest in this guide. On the contrary, however, the building that houses the café dates back to 1872. When you step into the café, walk through the discrete main entrance, you will discover a surprisingly cosy and warm-coloured room with large mirrors, big candelabra and certain Liberty style furniture. The large skylight, the impressing and antique chandelier, the old-fashioned record player and the bookshelf full of books give the Gran Caffé a charming and intimate atmosphere, which more precisely can be described as a “cosmopolitan-like living room”. The Campaiolo family, who runs the Gran Caffé, is from the “coffee capital” notably known as Naples. The Neapolitan recipe for Il caffé Gran Caffettiera - liquid hot chocolate, a shot of concentrated coffee, skimmed milk, lightly sprinkled with cacao – is a pure joy for your taste buds!

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